Is 10 vol or 20 vol better for grey coverage? The Ultimate Guide

According to salon professionals, resistant grey hair often requires a specific approach to coloring due to its unique texture and lack of pigment. This often leads people to wonder, is 10 vol or 20 vol better for grey coverage? Understanding the role of each can ensure successful, long-lasting results.

Quick Summary

For most scenarios involving permanent grey hair coverage, especially resistant strands, 20 volume developer is the most effective choice. It sufficiently opens the hair cuticle, ensuring deep penetration of color pigment for opaque, lasting results, while 10 volume is often better for depositing color on less resistant hair or blending.

Key Points

• For Most Grey Hair: 20 volume developer is superior for full, opaque coverage, especially on resistant grey hair, because it effectively opens the cuticle for deep pigment penetration.

• For Blending Grey: 10 volume developer is the preferred choice for those wanting to blend grey hair for a softer, more translucent, and lower-maintenance result.

• Understand Grey Hair: Grey hair is resistant due to a tightly closed cuticle and lack of pigment, making it harder for color to penetrate than pigmented hair.

• Patch Test is Crucial: Always perform a strand test, particularly if you are switching developers or have less resistant hair, to ensure you get the desired coverage and color result.

• Consider Longevity: 10 volume used with permanent color may fade faster on grey strands than 20 volume, which provides a longer-lasting, more durable finish.

Understanding the Basics of Hair Developer

To determine if 10 or 20 volume is better for your grey hair, it's essential to understand what developer does. Developer, or hydrogen peroxide, is the oxidizing agent that activates the hair color. The volume number indicates the concentration of hydrogen peroxide and its lifting power.

• 10 Volume (3% peroxide): This is a low-level developer used for depositing color and achieving a tone-on-tone or darker result. It offers minimal to no lift of the natural hair color and is gentler on the hair. It's often used with demi-permanent hair color.
• 20 Volume (6% peroxide): This is the standard developer for permanent hair coloring. It lifts the hair's natural pigment by one to two levels while simultaneously depositing new color. This dual action is key for covering grey hair.

The Unique Challenge of Grey Hair

Unlike pigmented hair, grey hair has no natural pigment and often a very tightly closed, resistant cuticle. This makes it difficult for hair color to penetrate and deposit effectively. The closed cuticle is the primary reason why grey hair can stubbornly resist color, and why simply depositing color without opening the cuticle is often unsuccessful for full coverage.

Why 20 Volume is Recommended for Resistant Grey Hair

For a permanent, opaque result on grey hair, especially resistant strands, 20 volume developer is generally the professional recommendation. Here's why:

1. Effective Cuticle Opening: The 20 volume developer has enough strength to effectively open the resistant hair cuticle, allowing the color molecules to penetrate deep into the cortex where they can take hold.
2. Maximum Deposit: With a properly opened cuticle, the permanent color pigment can be deposited fully, ensuring 100% coverage and a vibrant, long-lasting color.
3. Correct Lift and Tone: While grey hair has no pigment to lift, the 20 volume developer is necessary to lift the surrounding pigmented hair. This ensures a consistent, even result between the pigmented and non-pigmented hair.

When is 10 Volume Appropriate for Grey Hair?

While 20 volume is the standard for covering resistant grey, 10 volume can have its place in specific situations:

• Grey Blending: For those who prefer a more natural, translucent blend rather than opaque coverage, 10 volume developer used with a demi-permanent color can soften the appearance of grey hair without completely covering it. This provides a low-maintenance, less visible root line as it fades.
• Less Resistant Grey: Some individuals have fine, less resistant grey hair. In these cases, a 10 volume developer might provide adequate coverage, but results may fade more quickly. A strand test is always recommended.

Comparison Table: 10 Vol vs. 20 Vol for Grey Hair

Feature	10 Volume Developer	20 Volume Developer
Grey Coverage	Blending; semi-opaque result	Full, opaque coverage
Effect on Cuticle	Minimal opening; primarily deposits	Opens cuticle effectively for deep penetration
Lifting Power	Minimal to none	Lifts 1-2 levels
Color Result	Softer, more translucent; fades over time	Vibrant, long-lasting permanent color
Best For	Blending grey, less resistant hair, darker results	Resisting grey, opaque coverage, consistent results

Application Steps for Optimal Grey Coverage

For best results, especially when using 20 volume developer for resistant grey hair, follow these steps:

1. Preparation is Key: Ensure your hair is clean and free of product buildup. Protect your skin by applying a thin layer of barrier cream along your hairline and wearing gloves.
2. Mix the Color: Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the correct mixing ratio of permanent hair color and 20 volume developer. Mix in a non-metallic bowl until the consistency is smooth and creamy.
3. Section the Hair: Divide your hair into four manageable sections using clips. Start applying the color in the area with the most grey, which is often the front.
4. Saturate the Roots: Apply the color to the roots first, ensuring every grey strand is fully saturated. Use thin sections to guarantee even coverage. For particularly resistant hair, apply a generous amount.
5. Process and Time: Observe the processing time recommended by the manufacturer. For resistant grey hair, it's often best to allow the full processing time to ensure the color fully develops.
6. Emulsify and Rinse: At the end of the processing time, add a small amount of water and gently massage the hair to emulsify the color. Rinse thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Follow with a color-safe shampoo and conditioner.

Final Verdict: Which is Better?

The choice ultimately depends on your desired outcome and the nature of your grey hair. For the vast majority of people seeking permanent, opaque grey coverage, especially for resistant hair, 20 volume developer is the better choice. Its ability to open the hair cuticle effectively ensures the color penetrates and lasts. For those who prefer a softer, more blended look, or have less resistant grey, 10 volume can be a suitable option, but with the understanding that coverage may be less complete and less durable. Consult with a professional stylist if you are unsure which is right for you.

To learn more about hair coloring techniques and best practices, check out reliable resources like the Ugly Duckling Color Education Hub.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I have very resistant grey hair? Is 10 vol or 20 vol better for grey coverage then?

If you have very resistant grey hair, 20 volume developer is definitely the better option. Its higher percentage of peroxide is necessary to sufficiently open the tightly closed cuticle of resistant hair, allowing the permanent color molecules to penetrate and provide solid, long-lasting coverage.

Can I use 10 volume developer with permanent color to cover grey?

While it's possible, it is not recommended for full, opaque grey coverage. 10 volume provides minimal lift and primarily deposits color. For resistant grey hair, it may not effectively open the cuticle, leading to weak or patchy coverage that fades quickly.

Does 20 volume developer damage hair more than 10 volume?

Yes, because 20 volume contains a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide, it is more potent and can be slightly more damaging than 10 volume. However, for permanent grey coverage, the stronger developer is necessary to achieve the desired result. Proper conditioning and aftercare can minimize damage.

What is the best developer volume for blending my grey hair?

For blending grey hair, where you want a softer, less stark look, a 10 volume developer used with a demi-permanent hair color is ideal. This approach offers translucent coverage that gradually fades, resulting in less noticeable regrowth.

How can I tell if my grey hair is resistant?

Resistant grey hair is often coarser and may feel wiry to the touch. If you've tried coloring your hair in the past and found that grey strands didn't take the color well or the color faded quickly, it's likely you have resistant grey hair.

Is a double-processed grey coverage method necessary?

For extremely resistant grey hair, some professionals use a technique called 'mordancage,' which involves a pre-softening step with a stronger developer to open the cuticle before applying the color mixture. However, for most, a standard application with 20 volume is sufficient.

How long will the grey coverage last with 10 vs 20 volume?

Permanent color with 20 volume developer will provide the most durable and longest-lasting grey coverage. 10 volume with permanent color on grey hair may fade more quickly, while 10 volume with demi-permanent color is designed to wash out gradually over several weeks.